5th Gen Subaru Impreza Forum banner

Oil Oil Oil

17K views 43 replies 19 participants last post by  Buzzbomb 
#1 ·
Hello I5 family,
Due to my maintenance plan ending with the dealership, I'll be doing all of if not most of the maintenance myself and with help. Have any of you picked a good oil and filter combination?
I was thinking about going the AMSOil route but wanted to hear some input on what you run. I've heard may good things about AMSOil from various sources and wonder if its the right decision to make.
 
#3 ·
Consider installing an oil-drian valve. (like Fumoto) for several reasons:


*) The oil-drain plug is WAYYY on the firewall-side of the engine so removing it with vehicle on ground has to be done 'blind' while reaching from front.

*) With a valve, oil-changes are nearly dripless. (Oil filter is on top so it drains into engine out valve)
 
#5 ·
........The oil-drain plug is WAYYY on the firewall-side of the engine so removing it with vehicle on ground has to be done 'blind' while reaching from front.....

Yeah, all my previous Subaru's were super easy to do an oil change on. When I saw this one, I went and bought one of those pumps that sucks the old oil out through the dipstick tube.
 
#4 ·
#7 ·
I'm testing out the Amazon Basics 0w-20 oil for how long it lasts. I have the quick release valve that I will be installing after the next oil change. As far as the filter goes, go with the manufacturer's filter.
 
#8 ·
There's a fellow on Youtube doing a bracket showdown of engine oils. His channel is Project Farm. The Amazon Basics beat out Liqui Moly to get to the next round. So the stuff must be fairly good to beat the fancy German oil. Personally, I stick with Valvoline Advance Synthetic 0W20. Been running that in my cars for decades. But all the top brands will provide the same sort of performance. And the factory filter works fine. I buy them in bulk since I've got to change oil in three Subarus now. Plus the Fumoto lever is an awesome idea! With the boss's Forester, I can skootch under there, flip the switch and not have to jack the car up at all!
 
#10 · (Edited)
You'll hear likely a million different things when it comes to oil, but really this is one of the areas of car maintenance most prone to myths (and truly people spend too much time worrying about). Unless you're pushing your vehicle to the breaking edge in a WRC Stage/Rallycross/Le Mans/24NBR/etc, likely any name brand oil will work. There are few notable exceptions to this (rare and far in between) but a 155 HP relatively low compression NA Subaru Boxer isn't going to be too picky with oil, even if driven harder. Subaru NA engines almost always have excellent wear characteristics, making the oil brand even less important.

With that said, my recommendations are as following:

Buy a 0W-20 that meets the SN oil rating. This is practically every name brand 0W-20. I use Mobil 1 because they regularly have $12 rebates/5 qt container (and it is given back as a cashable check, not a pre-paid card!). This makes my oil cost about $10-$15 using Mobil 1 Extended Performance or Advanced Fuel Economy, depending on which is on sale and what price.

An OEM or Wix/Wix XP filters are the best for Subarus. For Subarus, Napa Gold and Napa Platinum are currently rebranded Wix and Wix XP respectively, so that is an option too (though always subject to change without notice). These are the only filters I know of that have the correct bypass setting of 23 PSI. Filters with low bypass settings spend more time in bypass mode than they do filtering. This generally means that most other oil filters are only actually filtering when the car is warm and idling at a stop. I order the Wix filters 5-6 at a time from Rock Auto with a ubiquitous 5% off code, which basically covers shipping.

Although that being said about OEM/WIX/Napa filters, it's also hard to ignore the data that a significant portion of people not getting their oil changed by a Subaru dealership are likely not getting a Wix/Napa filter and thus tens of millions of miles have been driven on "inferior" low bypass filters. This again reinforces the point that whatever name brand you choose, you'll be fine with.

If you're changing your oil at 3,000 miles or 6,000 miles (depending on severe vs regular maintenance schedule), likely the best bet would be Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy ($22 at walmart right now -$12 rebate) with the regular Wix filter from rock auto ($4 each). After rebate that would make your cost $14 for an oil change with a quality filter and oil.

If you want to push beyond the 6,000 mile limit (truly I'd only do this after the warranty has expire), then the Mobil 1 Extended performance ($25 - $12 rebate ) with the Wix XP ($6 from rock auto) would give you an oil and filter that are well proven in extended drain intervals for a total cost of $19. Pushing beyond the standard drain interval also requires some used oil analysis to see how you're doing and how far you can push it.

Other oil companies also occasionally have rebates, although none as frequent or as regular as Mobil 1. Don't be afraid to take advantage of another company's oil when it gets cheaper.

EDIT: as a last note, and more off topic, almost everyone changes their oil before it is anywhere near used up. There is already a huge margin of safety just using a brand name filter and a proper grade oil with the correct certifications/testings. Thus spending lots of money on expensive oils just means you're throwing oil away that has even more life left in it and could have been run for way longer and you really aren't gaining any better engine wear or a larger margin of safety.
 
#11 ·
My 2 cents...I agree with what was presented above but will add that you do NOT need EXTENDED PERFORMANCE oil to go beyond 6000 miles. Any good quality synthetic should get you to 10K miles without any issues. I am a diehard Pennzoil Platinum user but have no issues with Mobil 1. Anyone that changes their oil at 3000 miles on todays engines is just plain crazy and still drinking the "Jiffy Lube" Kool Aid.
 
#13 ·
Thank you everyone here; with special mention to securityguy / Loscaldazar / uncleTim; as those answers were helpful and the write-ups did make sense and were what I had been pondering over myself over these past few days. I will probably be going with the Mobil1 0w-20 (not sure which version yet) and the OEM filters. I want to get the Fumoto valve or something similar; however I drive a lowered impreza and I believe iirc that on the Fumoto website they stated not to use the valve if driving a lowered car, and yeah I scrape somewhat often as I have about 1.25" of ground clearance.
 
#18 ·
Unless you’re running conventional. You’re throwing away half your money and throwing away perfectly good oil every 3k.

It’s 2019. Oils and engine tolerances have come a long way since the 70s 3k interval practices.

Bobs the oil guy is a good website to look at. Also there are copious amounts of threads where people have logged their oil samples at various intervals through blackstone labs.

So yes. It is a bit crazy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#19 ·
I just had my first oil change done around 2700 miles. I had it done at the dealer with my own oil. After lots of research I decided to go with Motul 8100 eco lite 0w20. Got it at Lordco in BC for around $40 cdn...It is an ester based oil and it appears to be very high quality. After a few days I noticed that the cars oil temperature was lower and seemed quieter on start up and idle...just my opion. Maybe worth checking out....
 
#21 ·
You created an oil thread. There has never been a civil oil thread in the history of oil threads.

Like I said it’s 2019, as long as the oil meets the manufactures requirements listed in your owners manual it will be fine. As most synthetics are about the same. Even the oil amazon sells is superb.

Run what ever gives you a warm and fuzzy inside. If you want to shell out lots of money for amzoil or just stick with m1 it’s your car, but it will run no better or no worse. And if you want real information browse around here.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#22 · (Edited)
@ferraiolo1...your response is SPOT ON and exactly what I am trying to convey. TONS of data out there about the "3000 mile oil change interval" and yes it is crazy and unnecessary, but as I said...if you want to do it and flush money down the toilet...it IS your money and frankly Scarlet...I don't give a d@mn:wink2: I'm out...you can lead a horse to water but you can't make him drink.........
 
  • Like
Reactions: ferraiolo1
#23 ·
First...I agree 3k is not necessary these days.

Second...I understand the Subaru recommendation is 6k for the newer Impreza 2.0l. This question does not concern the "to maintain warranty" issues...I understand that. The question is more conceptual about the why.

2109 Impreza 5-door base...CVT
Normal driving conditions
No towing
Sedate driving habits

Question is straight forward...If a person uses a name brand 0w-20 full synthetic extended performance oil which claims 15k OCI...along with a name brand extended performance oil filter rated at 15k OCI...

How come I couldn't change oil/oil filter every 12k or 1 year, which ever comes first?

Is there something inherent with boxer engines which dictates a 6k/6 month OCI?

With the oil and filter both rated at 15k...seems to me I could confidently run 1 year/12k miles OCI.

The post is not about whether one chooses to change every 3k or 5k or 6k...personal choice and that is fine...it is about claims by manufactures oil/filter can run confidently to 15k.

I have driven Subaru's for 30 years. I had a 2001 Outback sedan with 200k which I had on a 5k OCI for the past 10 years using a synthetic blend. I donated this car to charity several months ago to purchase the 2019 5-door primarily for the increase safety features and the hatchback to carry things.

It just seems to me...given the increase in oil/oil filter technology these fine cars could easily (with confidence) go to a significantly longer OCI especially when driven by sedate drivers like myself.

Thoughts?
 
#24 ·
@DA_RU...you are totally on point my friend. It's funny that in Europe they are spec'd to run at far longer intervals than in the US. Why? Because the US population has been brain washed into shorter OCI and would have a hissy fit if they were told they could go more than 5-6K and not believe it anyway. Many manufacturers also use an oil life monitor that tells you when to change the oil based on mileage and driving characteristics. These days, many will take you up towards 10K miles. My 2019 Acura has this and I am at 7600 miles with 25% oil life left. My new 2019 RAM Limited also has this feature.

I agree that using a high quality filter like a Mobil1 or WIX/NAPA Gold, in conjunction with a quality 0W20 full synthetic oil, would easily get you to 10K miles or more. I, for one, would stick with the 6K intervals during the warranty period and then go to 10K (or whatever you feel comfortable with) post the warranty period just so Subaru can't throw it back in your face should you have an issue in the 3/36 warranty.
 
#29 ·
My new 2019 RAM Limited also has this feature.

Watch that. The olm algorithm has been proven to not account for everything. Mainly made for a soccer mom to know when you change their oil. Especially on an ending with DOD. As contaminates in the oil can/will clog up the tiny passage ways that activate the system.

My past few new Silverados were the same way. Olm still shows 40% left at 6k. No no.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#26 ·
I am at 5234 miles right now and I changed my oil at 3k miles because being s brand new engine, I’m pretty sure the oil had to have some minuscule shavings of metal in it since it’s a brand new engine being broken in. I plan on doing my changes every 3000-4000 miles just because I tend to drive the car spirited a lot being 20 years old, so it only seems right to change the oil more often . Gives peace of mind also knowing the oil , which is the lifeblood of the car basically, is being taken care of well ahead of time . My family has had other cars where we changed the oil at earlier intervals than recommended and those cars never gave any problems. One of them is a 2013 Altima with CVT, which everyone seems to have problems with, but ours is at 60k miles with no problems at all so far.
 
#27 ·
If that makes you feel better @Promo426 then go for it but you're driving a 2.0L Impreza...not a sports car...so you can't get too "spirited" with it that the factory 6K interval wouldn't work out for you just fine. I am all for changing the factory oil after 1K miles but after that 6K is just fine and will not hurt your car at all. As @ferraiolo1 stated above, check out the bobistheoilguy link to get better educated. Too many folks have drank the 3K Kool-Aid but your car...your money:smile2:
 
  • Like
Reactions: ferraiolo1
#28 ·
Oil changes are as much about having clean oil as they are about having new oil. As engine wear occurs, wear particles start to load up the oil. The filter collects the big particles and the smaller ones stay in the oil making it become more abrasive. Regular oil changes are one of the lower cost things you can do that's beneficial for prolonged engine life. There is no physical or magical relationship between miles and oil condition. The amount of engine wear that one driver has in 3000 miles could be more than another driver has in 6000 miles. Driving style (higher RPMs), letting engine come up to temperature, etc, all factor in. Having a regular interval to ensure the oil change isn't getting ignored can be as important as the interval. But more frequent oil change = less wear on engine internals during operation.
 
#34 ·
I've been using AMSOIL in all my vehicles for 10+ years and have been doing extended oil drains for almost as long. When I had my 2008 Honda Fit, I put as much as 20K miles on the oil. I change the oil in our 2013 Tribeca every 15K miles or 1 year, and the 2002 WRX gets changed at 10K or 1 year. I take several oil samples at the start to determine what drain interval I'm going to use.

We just bought our 2018 Impreza a week ago with 5,081 miles on it. It had an oil change before we bought it, but I'm going to do the same with this one.

Has anyone gone up one weight in viscosity? I was considering an 0w-30. Yes I understand that the engine was "designed" for 0w-20, but there is also pressure for car companies to increase their CAFE averages and lowering oil weight plays into that. Just wanted to see if anyone on here has tried a heavier weight.
 
#39 ·
I've been using AMSOIL in all my vehicles for 10+ years and have been doing extended oil drains for almost as long. When I had my 2008 Honda Fit, I put as much as 20K miles on the oil. I change the oil in our 2013 Tribeca every 15K miles or 1 year, and the 2002 WRX gets changed at 10K or 1 year. I take several oil samples at the start to determine what drain interval I'm going to use.

We just bought our 2018 Impreza a week ago with 5,081 miles on it. It had an oil change before we bought it, but I'm going to do the same with this one.

Has anyone gone up one weight in viscosity? I was considering an 0w-30. Yes I understand that the engine was "designed" for 0w-20, but there is also pressure for car companies to increase their CAFE averages and lowering oil weight plays into that. Just wanted to see if anyone on here has tried a heavier weight.
You still using Amsoil? Which one? I put some Sig 0W20 in my 17 legacy once or twice but each OCI was probably around 2500. Had to change via time, not mileage due to warranty. I am using M1 AFE in my 18 Legacy now but just finished that stash. GOing to M1 EP next. My Legacy has only had 2 changes and both were done at the dealer. I have around 6300 miles. Again, changes done at time not miles.
 
#35 ·
following up with everyone. Does anyone else here still struggle to reach 5k miles without losing a qt? i get to about 4200k each time no matter which oil im using. Everyone talking about long fill intervals...i don't even make it.
 
#38 ·
I will throw my hat in the ring here.

Talking about oil always opens a can of worms :)

I can only tell you what I do and it's worked for me for the past 10+ Subarus. Again, this is what works for me, there is always more than one way to skin a cat. Lots of oil and filters out there that you can use. I try to get oil and filters that are easily obtainable and reasonably priced. I think the key is to change your oil and filter at minimum based on what the Owners Manual states.

I especially think it's a good idea to do this yourself because it's easy to do. If you get under your car every once in awhile you may notice stuff things that are amiss before they become big problems. Also, I highly recommend staying away from quick lube places. I've been on the boards for decades now and there is horror story after horror story about things that have gotten screwed up big time. I've seem a number myself on friends cars. I realize not everyone has a spot were they can do an oil change. In that case find a good mom and pop place or dealer to do it. These places typically have a vested interest in doing it right so you come back for another oil change or something else.

If my motor is a turbo I tend to change at 3K mile intervals, NA like my Impreza 5K miles. This way if I go over a little I don't sweat it. I typically use Mobil 1 brand but I also like Castrol. My filter of choice is WIX 57055XP as they have a higher quality construction and does have the higher bypass valve pressure similar to OEM. You can get them for a good price here >>RockAuto<<

24067


Now that the oil filter is up top, which is very nice and convenient, you can't pre-fill it anymore. You can however crank the motor over without starting it to circulate the oil into the system first. It's very simple.

After your oil change, before you start the car for the first time, quickly push the accelerator (gas pedal) to the floor and hold it there. Turn the key or push the start button and hold it to let the motor crank for a little bit. Only crank it for 5-10 seconds, you can do it a couple of times as long as you don't let the gas pedal up. It won't start as long as you have the accelerator all the way to the floor. This will get oil flowing in the system and put oil in the filter. After that, take your foot off of the gas pedal and start the car. I like to let it run and check for leaks at the oil filter and drain plug.

From time to time, I will get a Blackstone Oil Analysis done on my cars, I get prepaid kits. I think it's a good idea but that's just me.

I also always install a Fumoto Valve, it makes oil changes a snap, I like how you can drain the oil when it's super hot and minimize the risk of getting a burn. I like to use the short version with a clip on nipple and tygon hose. I know some people feel the need for a safety clip they sell but I've been using these valves since 97 and never had one open accidently. I've moved this one over from my BRZ.

24064

24065

24066
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top