[Sean_Hass]

Hello everyone, im relatively new to this forum so please bare with me. I've owned my 17 sport 5mt for over a year now and noticed its always been a very noise engine. Today I was driving around and got a check engine light but the car wasn't acting any differently, so i pulled over and got my scanner out and the code was something along the line of camshaft position sensor bank 1. I kept driving and after maybe 10 miles i started hearing a very distinct clanking or knocking sound (im uncertain if these are related, but i would assume it is) that is abnormal compared to how my car has always sounded, and it's not always there. It seems like the new knocking sound is occurring between 1500 rpm and like 3500 rpm. I was curious if anyone else has any info related to this, what exactly it could be, if its under warranty, anything. Ive got 59,490 miles on the car and powertrain warranty until 60k.

 

[Byll]

Heh. Heh. I am sure that one of us will have a very well-thought-out technical answer, but to move things along, methinks that it would be good you to visit your local Subaru dealer, in the next 500 miles - for sure...

 

[Sean_Hass]

Heh. Heh. I am sure that one of us will have a very well-thought-out technical answer, but to move things along, methinks that it would be good you to visit your local Subaru dealer, in the next 500 miles - for sure...

oh yes, i will without a doubt be doing this, i just wanted to see if i could find anything out

 

[cstammer]

I’m not sure if it’s like it is on the STI and the previous gen wrx (ej motors) but it could actually be some ringland failure (or knock). Search for some sounds of it n compare it to your car.

 

[Buzzbomb]

This is just a guess, but maybe one of the timing chain guides is loose?

 

[Ratcht80tooth]

Let us know what the dealer finds wrong with it.

 

[peaty]

If you can have it checked out since it's still covered that would be great. It's not hard to replace but best if it can be done on their dime. I had one go bad on my Miata and the car would not start.

Beyond unplugging and plugging them back in (there are two)just to be sure the contacts are clean best to have it looked at.

 

[Sean_Hass]

This is just a guess, but maybe one of the timing chain guides is loose?

i was wondering about that, how difficult would it be to check that myself? i prefer doing as much work as i can by myself haha

 

[Buzzbomb]

i was wondering about that, how difficult would it be to check that myself? i prefer doing as much work as i can by myself haha

This video doesn't show the teardown, but he shows one of the bad tensioners. He also says how hard it was to get to. Seems like he went to the extreme, but I don't know. It looks 100X more involved compared to doing a timing belt.

 

[Sean_Hass]

I’m not sure if it’s like it is on the STI and the previous gen wrx (ej motors) but it could actually be some ringland failure (or knock). Search for some sounds of it n compare it to your car.

heres a video i just recorded of the noise.

 

[cstammer]

heres a video i just recorded of the noise.

man that kinda sounds like knock. I’m not 100% sure though, someone else wanna verify?

 

[Buzzbomb]

That does sound like rod knock. I would get that in ASAP while still under warranty.

 

[Sean_Hass]

man that kinda sounds like knock. I’m not 100% sure though, someone else wanna verify?

god i sure hope not, ive only had this car for 9k miles


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[Sean_Hass]

That does sound like rod knock. I would get that in ASAP while still under warranty.

i called last week, i havent had any recalls done yet so they told me to bring it in this thursday and theyd have all of the recall replacement parts ready, and they’ll check out the issue as well.


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[cstammer]

god i sure hope not, ive only had this car for 9k miles


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It’s weird that it would be knock though, i’m assuming you don’t drive the car SUPER hard, and knock usually happens in the wrx and sti because of the unequal length headers, cylinders 2 and 4 get a lot hotter than 1 and 3 since the exhaust gas has to travel further. Our cars have equal length headers. Definitely keep us updated with what the dealer says when you bring it in!

 

[Sean_Hass]

It’s weird that it would be knock though, i’m assuming you don’t drive the car SUPER hard, and knock usually happens in the wrx and sti because of the unequal length headers, cylinders 2 and 4 get a lot hotter than 1 and 3 since the exhaust gas has to travel further. Our cars have equal length headers. Definitely keep us updated with what the dealer says when you bring it in!

i must say that i definitely do not baby the car lol, i drive it hard, but im never sitting at redline and rarely take it past 5k rpm, usually shift around 3-4k


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[Buzzbomb]

It’s weird that it would be knock though, i’m assuming you don’t drive the car SUPER hard, and knock usually happens in the wrx and sti because of the unequal length headers, cylinders 2 and 4 get a lot hotter than 1 and 3 since the exhaust gas has to travel further. Our cars have equal length headers. Definitely keep us updated with what the dealer says when you bring it in!

Rod knock is not caused unequal length headers. The distinctive boxer rumble is from the headers.

Rod knock is when there is a bearing failure between the connecting rod and the crankshaft which causes the end of the rod to move back and fourth against the crank.

 

[Buzzbomb]

i must say that i definitely do not baby the car lol, i drive it hard, but im never sitting at redline and rarely take it past 5k rpm, usually shift around 3-4k

Please keep us updated. Just out of curiosity, had you done any oil analysis' since you've owned the car? We bought ours used, it just had 6K miles on it, but when I changed the oil, I sent in a sample to make sure there was nothing out of the ordinary going on. I typically do 3 or 4 to establish a baseline to determine engine health and what my oil change interval will be.

 

[cstammer]

Rod knock is not caused unequal length headers. The distinctive boxer rumble is from the headers.

Rod knock is when there is a bearing failure between the connecting rod and the crankshaft which causes the end of the rod to move back and fourth against the crank.

but would it not contribute to cylinders 2 and 4 getting hotter than if equal length headers were installed? If it’s something that won’t cause problems i’m all for it.

 

[Sean_Hass]

Please keep us updated. Just out of curiosity, had you done any oil analysis' since you've owned the car? We bought ours used, it just had 6K miles on it, but when I changed the oil, I sent in a sample to make sure there was nothing out of the ordinary going on. I typically do 3 or 4 to establish a baseline to determine engine health and what my oil change interval will be.

I actually have not gotten any oil analysis done. Ive never had a newer car and didnt know to do these things. The old 04 silverado was simple, if its throwing codes, clear them and top her off with oil LMAO. I will definitely be doing this in the future though. Car’s going to the dealer this thursday, we’ll see what they say.


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