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We bought a used 2017 wagon back in June from a Subaru dealer and as part of the purchase, it included changing the oil (no record of it being done prior but the car only had 12k miles). Today I went under the car to change the oil and I could not get the bolt off for fear of stripping it. I checked with my torque wrench set to 45Nm and it beeped solidly when I tried to remove it. So clearly the dealer over tightened. I think it is reasonable for me to get them to remove and place it. Does that make sense?

Also as this was my first time under the car, I noticed an access panel that is missing - am I correct? I tried to find this part on the Subaru sight but I can't even find the guard plate listed
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Thanks in advance.
 

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2019 Base CVT + Eyesight + Fogs
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Ouch, 12k breakin miles with no oil change..

Yeah I'd take it to the dealer and chew them out for it. And get a fumoto or ezvalve drain valve for the future.
 
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My 2017 does NOT have any cover for the drain-plug.

I installed a fumoto valve the first time I changed my oil and have enjoyed the toolless oil-changes everafter.

For overtightened drain plugs such as yours... I have been known to stop by local mom-n-pop repair-center and they are happy to break it free so I can get it out. (Often, the rear differential plugs will get corroded in-place.) Worth the minimal cost they ask.
 

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"Ouch, 12k breakin miles with no oil change.. " The dealer had no record of a change but of course the owner could have gone anywhere. I checked the oil before buying and it was in good condition. Drivetrain is still covered so I was comfortable at this point just figured getting them to change the oil made sense.

So perhaps I am going to be foolish here. This is the first subaru I have ever owned. I checked on Youtube and I thought I was certain where the oil pan bolt was. In the photo below the oil pan bolt is in the circled area at the bottom - correct? Assuming I am correct than what is the circled access area at the top? It clearly has the signs of a panel that can be removed.

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I checked on Youtube and I thought I was certain where the oil pan bolt was.
The oil pan has MANY bolts holding it to the engine.... do you mean to say DRAIN plug?
I have never been 'under' my Impreza... the drain plug is about arms length whilst lying infront of vehicle. (near back of engine)

I wonder if the access-panel you show is for changing an O2 sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Bruce. Yes, I am referring to the oil drain plug. I am fairly confident that the plug I was accessing is the correct one. I may take another stab at it tomorrow as I readily doubt the dealer will admit to over tightening the bolt.
 

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My drain plug was rounded off first time I changed oil after I bought the car. I had to take the whole lower splash shield off and take the plug out with vise grips. Installed a new plug, and torqued to 27 ft/lbs. Haven't had an issue since. The oil change people at dealers work as fast as possible, because they only get about 25 minutes pay for an oil change. My plug showed signs of being installed and removed with an impact wrench.
 

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My drain plug was rounded off first time I changed oil after I bought the car. I had to take the whole lower splash shield off and take the plug out with vise grips. Installed a new plug, and torqued to 27 ft/lbs. Haven't had an issue since. The oil change people at dealers work as fast as possible, because they only get about 25 minutes pay for an oil change. My plug showed signs of being installed and removed with an impact wrench.
That's very typical of Subaru dealership techs to use an impact drill. They also torque down to 30 ft-lbs I believe.
 

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So the subaru handbook says to torque to 18 or 20 ftlbs and over time the eat of the oil pan makes it stick like cement. Get a car garage to pull it out and replace it. It's not worth the hassle dealing with the dealership
 

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So the subaru handbook says to torque to 18 or 20 ftlbs and over time the eat of the oil pan makes it stick like cement. Get a car garage to pull it out and replace it. It's not worth the hassle dealing with the dealership
My book is packed for the move so I'll have to take your word on that. I've complained every time I had to bring it up. This past time they apparently listened to me because I didn't need the equivalence of a torque wrench to break it loose. I grew up on country (dirt) roads and that'll really make them cinch down, but nowhere near the intensity they torque it down. I've had it serviced at three different dealerships and they all claimed they're required to torque them down to 30 ft-lbs - a new to me as there was no such torque spec when I worked in the automotive industry that required a torque wrench.
 

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I checked with my torque wrench set to 45Nm and it beeped solidly when I tried to remove it. So clearly the dealer over tightened.

Not sure if this is what you're implying, but I'll state this just in case:

The amount of torque required to break a bolt loose ("breakaway torque") is not equivalent to the amount of torque used to tighten the bolt. The friction holding the bolt in place after it has been tightened is static friction. The friction that is reacting against your wrench when you are tightening the bolt is kinetic friction. The static friction will be higher than the kinetic friction, i.e. the torque required to break a bolt loose will be higher than the torque used to tighten that bolt.
 

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2019 Subaru Impreza Sport 5 Dr. Manual Shift
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The drain plug has a torque spec of 30.8 ft/bs there is a crush washer that is supposed to be changed every time you change the oil. Although I've reused them a few times it's not a good idea to do that often since they can leak.

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One heads up is if you have a new car and are changing the oil, the crush washer is really hard to see. For some reason they paint the oil pan after the bolt is in place so the crush washer tends to stick to the bolt. You have to look close to see it, it's easy to think it's part of the bolt. Most of the time you need a knife to pry it off.

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You should consider getting a Fumoto Oil Drain Valve to replace the drain plug. Makes changing the oil a lot easier and you don't have to deal with crush washers. I've put one on every one of my scoobys since I learned bout them 97. Never an issue with them.

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Also, it's not a good practice to use a torque wrench to loosen bolts, it's bad for it.
 

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I never changed the crush washer on our 2011 Legacy. Never had a leak. We had it until last year when I deer took it out.

If you're going to do your own work, invest in good tools. Stop using cheap 12 point wrenches/sockets.

I will say finally got smart and put a Fumoto on both the Outback and Impreza
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So the subaru handbook says to torque to 18 or 20 ftlbs and over time the eat of the oil pan makes it stick like cement. Get a car garage to pull it out and replace it. It's not worth the hassle dealing with the dealership
Followed your advice and went to a independent shop that I've used once before. They said the bolt was on ridiculously tight but they made sure the replacement was torqued properly (41.7Nm). Funny I was watching a video on the blue vs black oil filters and the guy also had the same problem with the drain plug being on too tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I never changed the crush washer on our 2011 Legacy. Never had a leak. We had it until last year when I deer took it out.

If you're going to do your own work, invest in good tools. Stop using cheap 12 point wrenches/sockets.

I will say finally got smart and put a Fumoto on both the Outback and Impreza
While I completely agree that for DIY it makes sense to invest in good tools and the right tool for the job. That last part being the case, not every 12 point wrench/socket is cheap. I have caliper studs on my Boxster that require a 12pt socket.
 

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While I completely agree that for DIY it makes sense to invest in good tools and the right tool for the job. That last part being the case, not every 12 point wrench/socket is cheap. I have caliper studs on my Boxster that require a 12pt socket.
I didn't think I had to have 2 or 3 paragraphs detailing all the obvious exceptions.
Point still stands, don't use 12 point sockets on 6 point bolts/nuts. Don't buy cheap tools.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Sorry I only mentioned the 12 pt because a friend, who should have been smart enough to know better, destroyed some 12 pt nuts before he realized that a 6 pt was not going to work.
 

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Sorry I only mentioned the 12 pt because a friend, who should have been smart enough to know better, destroyed some 12 pt nuts before he realized that a 6 pt was not going to work.
Sorry it scares me to know people like that are working on their own cars.
 
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