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Nothing yet. Did you send data to SOA? If so, what format did you send it to them?
I sent my issues log in Excel format where I tracked the mileage and days where it acted up, a word document with symptoms and links to others with the issue, and a picture of the review I left my dealership. Wasn't able to upload of the movie of OBDII data.
 

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Hi guys, just want to do a follow up. Since the Subaru dealer replaced the PCV valve, the car has been performing much better and there is no more jitter/massive lack of power like it was before. My girlfriend who is the daily driver has not been complaining about it and I’ve never noticed it again when i took the car. For your information, i do have a K&N air filter on the car. Sorry about the story of the guy who traded it for a Honda CRV, that sucks, your Subaru Dealer should have been offering some solutions. Cheers.
 

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Hey Jmax, I didn't get a very favorable response from SOA. However, at the recommendation of a few other forums I have been monitoring oil level. I think the dealers may be overfilling the oil during oil changes. A bunch of folks had issues after the first oil change. My issue recent stopped after a particularly long drive in the mountains of WV. Once the oil level drops about a quarter inch below the top mark on the dipstick when hot the issue vanished. I'm going to continue to monitor. Needless to say I'll be changing the oil next go round to make sure I know how much is being added. This is only a working theory right now.
 

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Hey Jmax, I didn't get a very favorable response from SOA. However, at the recommendation of a few other forums I have been monitoring oil level. I think the dealers may be overfilling the oil during oil changes. A bunch of folks had issues after the first oil change. My issue recent stopped after a particularly long drive in the mountains of WV. Once the oil level drops about a quarter inch below the top mark on the dipstick when hot the issue vanished. I'm going to continue to monitor. Needless to say I'll be changing the oil next go round to make sure I know how much is being added. This is only a working theory right now.
Hi guys, just want to do a follow up. Since the Subaru dealer replaced the PCV valve, the car has been performing much better and there is no more jitter/massive lack of power like it was before. My girlfriend who is the daily driver has not been complaining about it and I’ve never noticed it again when i took the car. For your information, i do have a K&N air filter on the car. Sorry about the story of the guy who traded it for a Honda CRV, that sucks, your Subaru Dealer should have been offering some solutions. Cheers.
Hey, I bought and replaced that pcv valve myself as my dealer wouldn't. Like jmaxch said, my issue went away for a few days, but returned. That's when I bought and installed the AOS. The problem didn't immediately go away, but I've been driving it daily over the past two weeks, and haven't had the issue. I'm not sure if it from cooler temps here in the northeast, or it is actually fixed. I checked my oil today, after 2000 miles. (I changed it myself last change) and it has hardly dropped at all. I'm cautiously optimistic.
 

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Just bought a 2019. Under 500 miles. I had this where in 5th gear the rpms wouldn't go past 2500. I chalked it up to being in the break in period, but now I'm kind of scared. Dunno if I should bring it in to the dealer... Reflash? It's a manual
 

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Just bought a 2019. Under 500 miles. I had this where in 5th gear the rpms wouldn't go past 2500. I chalked it up to being in the break in period, but now I'm kind of scared. Dunno if I should bring it in to the dealer... Reflash? It's a manual
I would start by checking your oil level when hot. I'd be interested to see what you find.
 

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Just bought a 2019. Under 500 miles. I had this where in 5th gear the rpms wouldn't go past 2500. I chalked it up to being in the break in period, but now I'm kind of scared. Dunno if I should bring it in to the dealer... Reflash? It's a manual
How fast were you going at that point, i.e., 5th at 2500 rpm??

When you revved 4th out how high did the rpms go before you put it in 5th?

Since you have a manual transmission you must have experience with them, yes? Then you know all about using the right gear for the conditions of load, etc. ... always keeping the revs up and never lugging it.

Asking an engine to make more rpms when it's up against its ability is lugging it... which means it has stalled. Just as an aircraft stalls when it's asked to climb at an angle its engine is unable to do. It stops climbing and falls. An engine does the same thing. It stalls and cannot do what you've asked.

Maybe you're just not describing it correctly or I've misunderstood. What you're describing is alarming, and you need an answer... and some here can possibly help if you add more detail to your describtion of your issue.
 

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Earlier in this thread the subject of injector cleaner came up, it helped in that case.

Every fuel injected engine I've owned, beginning with my first in 1975, fuel injectors have been a problem... always cured by one injector cleaner; Techron. Back in '75 when my car (due more to the terrible gasoline conditions of the time), developed symptoms a lot like is in this thread. After having the injectors replaced by the dealership twice, and still the problems continued, I looked for another solution. I found it in a BMW garage quite a distance away. They used Techron. I bought some and Voila! Problem solved.... for the time being. The gas was still full of water and dirt from old leaking storage tanks. Everywhere. I bought a lot of Techron but kept my car working right.

Later years saw the gummint require better from gas stations, many older ones simply closing as they couldn't afford the upgrades or were unwilling. Gas got better. But only better, never perfect. So Techron remained my go-to with my fuel injected cars over the years.

Fast forward to today. Virtually all cars are fuel injected. And still I use Techron... port injected or direct injected I regularly add Techron (and MMO) to my gas tank every other fillup. I use only top tier gas from known good stations. As a result I have not had an injector problem in any Subaru since I took deliver of my '05 LGT and found it "that way." One bottle of Techron and a full tank of 93 later it ran like a scalded dog and stayed that way.

TLDR, Try some Techron (only!). You may like it. If it doesn't help, at the least it won't hurt and it'll only cost a few bucks.
 

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How fast were you going at that point, i.e., 5th at 2500 rpm??

When you revved 4th out how high did the rpms go before you put it in 5th?

Since you have a manual transmission you must have experience with them, yes? Then you know all about using the right gear for the conditions of load, etc. ... always keeping the revs up and never lugging it.

Asking an engine to make more rpms when it's up against its ability is lugging it... which means it has stalled. Just as an aircraft stalls when it's asked to climb at an angle its engine is unable to do. It stops climbing and falls. An engine does the same thing. It stalls and cannot do what you've asked.

Maybe you're just not describing it correctly or I've misunderstood. What you're describing is alarming, and you need an answer... and some here can possibly help if you add more detail to your describtion of your issue.

I've driven a manual for more than 100k miles. Not expert but I know about using the right gear. This was at 60 mph slight incline. Asked for more power. Floored it and nothing. Rpms stayed at 2500. Car just slowed down. Had to downshift to 4th....
 

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How fast were you going at that point, i.e., 5th at 2500 rpm??

When you revved 4th out how high did the rpms go before you put it in 5th?

Since you have a manual transmission you must have experience with them, yes? Then you know all about using the right gear for the conditions of load, etc. ... always keeping the revs up and never lugging it.

Asking an engine to make more rpms when it's up against its ability is lugging it... which means it has stalled. Just as an aircraft stalls when it's asked to climb at an angle its engine is unable to do. It stops climbing and falls. An engine does the same thing. It stalls and cannot do what you've asked.

Maybe you're just not describing it correctly or I've misunderstood. What you're describing is alarming, and you need an answer... and some here can possibly help if you add more detail to your describtion of your issue.
I'm breaking it in so I change gear at 3k
 

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Then you know how to drive. :)

It may well be the injectors... or a combination of other things. Assuming (!?) you haven't driven the car over 3k rpm, and certainly therefore not under all load conditions, it may be the ECU learning, and reacting to, new areas of the maps. If (big word) you're using 87 octane and the load being seen is resulting in the ECU adjusting fuel and timing to prevent detonation, the linear progress as well as power available may be reeled back... to inadequate.

Mine ran like poo when I first got it. I drove it like that gingerly for a few days until I got the free tank of gas down to half full. Then I filled with 91 and added some Techron and MMO (8 oz container, half and half). It began to work like I expected and continued to refine as the miles went up. Also, do not forget the recommended 87 octane was not chosen to work under all loads and conditions... it will work in most people's driving, but it will not deliver full performance under ALL conditions... as maybe you've found. In my case, I'm sure that it was also touching all its load cells, too, as I run my cars up to their maximum from the time I get them. Many new cars, zero problems. Second day in my Impreza I went directly to the tallest steepest mountain around and hammered it.

The Impreza's engine is a great, although little, engine. But it has to employ all the tricks to perform properly under all circumstances. I see it in the mountains here... it'll be going up at the pace I've chosen, sounding unruffled. But if I flip the gear lever to manual I can see it is in a lower "gear" than I though since it is in drive. I've done this a number of times, and every time the load (hills etc) is more than the engine can easily deliver, it'll downshift to lower gears automatically and seamlessly.

A manual can't do that. The driver has to do it. This mini-motor is not very powerful, however comparable it is to others in its segment. With its limited resources it needs whatever lower gear works to keep the engine speed up and forward progress consistent. The CVT does it amazingly, actually. But manual drivers will need to adjust their expectations, and change gears to suit the situation.

I once had a MT Chevy Citation with a 4cyl engine. It got great gas mileage and ran like a champ... in MA where I lived then. But the first trip back to WV to see family I found its engine's puny limits in the mountains, where what you're describing happened to me. I got caught in a bunch of semis in a dense fog going up the mouintains and was trapped. Even downshifting to 2nd and wringing it out couldn't get me out of that mess. Just would not do it.

I got rid of that car as soon as I got back to MA, trading it in for one with a V6 and more power. This is the first car since that '83 with as little horsepower. But this one is much much smarter and has the CVT which combine to make this mouise motor work just fine. I won't buy another MT car with low power. It won't work for me.
 

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It's a quarter inch past the second hole...
If you're referring to the second hole as the top one, then your level is good. I had an earlier post where my car was halfway between the holes after 1600 miles. I also said about the air oil separator, and since installation and a fresh oil change, I'm now at 2600 miles and oil level is just right about where it was when I changed it. Yes I'll agree 100%, that engines shouldn't burn oil though. Also, with the data I was recording, and ignition timing was getting pulled, I attributed it to detonation. I also switched from 87 octane to 90. These all seemed to help, and since car ran for a few days with the separator on, I think there was a relearning in the ecu. I read some things on romraider, about feed back knock correction and fine knock correction, one was instant and one is learned. I'm not sure if any of this applies to what you're experiencing, but maybe it'll give you some things to look for. Also since the car is such low mileage, if it's easy to make the problem happen, go back to the dealer and make sure a tech rides with you, so they don't tell you that you don't know how to drive a manual, like they told me.
 

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If you're referring to the second hole as the top one, then your level is good. I had an earlier post where my car was halfway between the holes after 1600 miles. I also said about the air oil separator, and since installation and a fresh oil change, I'm now at 2600 miles and oil level is just right about where it was when I changed it. Yes I'll agree 100%, that engines should burn oil though. Also, with the data I was recording, and ignition timing was getting pulled, I attributed it to detonation. I also switched from 87 octane to 90. These all seemed to help, and since car ran for a few days with the separator on, I think there was a relearning in the ecu. I read some things on romraider, about feed back knock correction and fine knock correction, one was instant and one is learned. I'm not sure if any of this applies to what you're experiencing, but maybe it'll give you some things to look for. Also since the car is such low mileage, if it's easy to make the problem happen, go back to the dealer and make sure a tech rides with you, so they don't tell you that you don't know how to drive a manual, like they told me.
By second hole I meant if you count from the tip upward. So a quarter inch past that one. I saw your post way back in this thread but I had no clue what aos was... Now I see it's an air oil separator. Where can I find that part? Thanks
 

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I got mine from Crawford, they don't have one specific for 2017+ Impreza 2.0i , but I used to one for 18+ Crosstrek since they have the same engine, but the intake manifold is different, that's why I made my own bracket. They list one for 2012-2016 Impreza, but not sure if it'll work or not.
 
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