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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all,
In this thread, I include all wiring needed to replace the radio and retain almost every feature of the car and how to wire them.

Standard disclaimer:
I'm not responsible if you screw up something. This info is given out of good will, to the best of my knowledge. I'm not a profesionnal, only an amateur (with 23 years of mobile sound system background). Don't come to cry if you burn your car down and your wife leaves with the kid :wink2:


Known features that won't work with aftermarket radio:
- Display above the radio will not display audio track info or radio station playing. It just stays blank on the screen that would display radio stuff. Nothing's broken on the other pages of this display
- Display above the radio will not display Weather info (If you had Sirius subscription). The Weather page just don't appear anymore. Nothing's broken on the other pages of this display
- The time won't auto-set (battery removed) or auto-update (Daylight TimeSaving) anymore. This feature comes with the XM/Sirius tuner.
- You can't change car parameters with the radio anymore (lights timer, distance unit, buzzer volume, etc). You can use the steering wheel buttons on the bottom left as usual. It's just a little less convenient but it works well. Not a deal breaker.
- Volume adjustment with Vehicule Speed probably won't work. It depends on your headunit and finding the right wire to plug in. My new headunit don't have this feature.



Wiring and pinout of harnesses
See post #2


Removing OEM headunit
To remove the radio, it's very straight foward:
1- Insert flathead screw driver between Vent and soft dash board at the botton of the vent. Using the soft material will prevent any damage to the dashboard part. Repeat for both vents on each side of radio
2- Remove the top part above the radio. You can just yank it toward the back of the car or pry it like on the 2nd picture
3- Remove the 4 screws. No picture of this. Next you can pull the radio toward the back of car. It is clipped on in addition to the 4 screws.
4- Disconnect all the connectors. They all have a clip to be pushed to be removed, even the USB one.

Connect headunit Dimmer
If you want to connect the illumination wire so your new headunit retains the dimmer feature, you will need to remove the HVAC controls. I have a Limited model with auto HVAC, but I would guess they are all mount the same way.
1- remove the radio as per the instructions above
2 - 3rd picture is a view from the radio hole, looking downward toward the HVAC controls. I circled the pins that hold the HVAC controls. You can either push on them from behind or try to pull from the front. The top is easy to unclip (black clips), the bottom is held with blue clips and they are hard to pull
3- Unclip the wire harness.
4- The wire you need to tap into is the 2nd from the right, bottom row, the orange one. It's the picture with a needle inserted. What I found easiest is to remove the pin from the harness and tap on it, tape the wires toghether tightly, then insert back in harness and reclip the bottom
5- To remove pin, disengage each side of the harness so the bottom pops loose. Then insert needle above pin and lift the plastic tab, while gently pullin on the wire.

New headunit's Microphone placement in OEM spot
See post #2

Connect headunit to parking brake
If you want to connect the parking brake wire, it's on the 28 pins connector behind the radio. It's pin #15. 1st on the left, bottom row. Gray wire.

Retain the Steering Wheel Controls
If you want to retain the Steering Wheel Controls, check this How-To:
http://www.impreza5.com/forum/26-electronics-audio-lighting/8753-installing-steering-whell-controls-aftermarket-radio.html

Retain OEM rearview camera
If you want to retain the OEM rearview camera, check this How-to:
http://www.impreza5.com/forum/26-electronics-audio-lighting/8777-keeping-rearview-camera-aftermarket-radio.html

New location for USB and AUX in
For the USB and AUX in of the new radio, I just passed them throught the center console compartment below the HVAC. There is a hole to hold a light but it's empty. With the radio removed, you can use a file to enlarge the hole just a little bit and fish your wires in this place. I prefer to have the USB plug there as opposed to the OEM place.


OEM Speaker info, dimension and pictures
See post #8
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
New headunit Microphone placement in OEM spot
I installed the new headunit's microphone (for bluetooth and Push To talk commands) in the OEM roofmounted place. I have a US Limited, Canadian Sport model so there's the moonroof, but the OEM mic is probably in the same place. I don't have EyeSight, maybe there are some additional stepsThis section assumes the headunit is already removed

Stuff to be removed
01- Open the glovebox
02- Open the passenger (right) door. Pop the side of the dash
03- Pull on the weatherstripping
04- (no picture) You can remove the A-pillar plastic, just pull on it toward the inside of the car. Be carefull not to pull too hard, there is a retainer inside to prevent it from flying away in case the air bag deploy.
05- Remove the overhead console, insert flat screwdriver between beige and dark plastic. See picture below
06- Remove the 2 Philips screws
07- Pop the overhead console. The rest is some clips. There is 2 or more wiring harness to undo for the overhead lights, moonroof, etc.

How to fish the wire
01- I used the top hole to pass the headphone jack connector toward the inside of the car. It is circled in red
02- Grab the connector from inside the dash. My hand fitted just fine beyond the top of the glove box, no need to remove it
03- Take the wire toward the radio. Again, I was able to push my arm enough on the radio side to grab the connector and pull the wire to the radio spot.
04- Fish the wire toward the roof
05 - When getting to the top, just tuck it under the roof carpet (sorry, I don't know the real name of this)

Holding the new Mic in place
01- I created a braket to hold the new mic. It's made from ½ perforated pipe strapping. I bent the hole for holding the mic with big wires cutted to enlarge the hole. The square box on the side is the OEM mic. As you can see, there's a lot of wires going to it, that's why I figured I would just use the mic bundled with the new radio. Also, I screwed back the unused screw to make sure I don't lose it. The OEM mic just rest where it is on the picture
02- Adjust the bracket to have to mic peeking out a bit
03- Reassemble everything.




Parts to ease installation
Here are the parts I used, not including the Steering Wheel Controls and the Rearview Camera (those are documented in their respective How-To)

Metra Double Din Face-plate, High-Gloss
95-8908HG

Metra wiring harness (Power and Speakers out)
70-1761

Metra Antenna Adaptor Cable
40-LX11




Documentation of the wiring

10-pin power/front speakers harness
1 2 - - 3 4
5 6 7 8 9 10
(orientation: viewing pins on car's factory plug, wires pointed away from you)

01---Right Front (+)
02---Left Front (+)
03---+12V Accessory
04---+12V Battery/Constant

05---Right Front (-)
06---Left Front (-)
07---Ground
08---Power Antenna
09---[NC]
10---[NC]


6-pin rear speakers harness
1 - - 2
3 4 5 6
(orientation: viewing pins on car's factory plug, wires pointed away from you)

1---Right Rear (+)
2---Left Rear (+)

3---Right Rear (-)
4---[NC]
5---[NC]
6---Left Rear (-)


28-pin SWC/aux/mic harness, Reverse, Parking brake
Wires I'm not sure are in [], most makes sense but I did'nt test them myself
01 .. 14
15 .. 28
(orientation: viewing pins on car's factory plug, wires pointed away from you)

01------Not Connected
02------Green-----------Reverse signal, +12V when on Reverse Gear
03------Not Connected
04------Red-------------[Mic 5v supply to Mic Amp]
05------Yellow----------[Mic Audio Input (+)]
06------LightBlue-------[Mic Detect]
07------Not Connected
08------Not Connected
09------Red-------------CAN Bus
10------Blue------------CAN Bus
11------Not Connected
12------Yellow----------
13------Not Connected
14------Gray------------
15------Gray------------Parking Brake Signal, Ground when parking brake lever is UP.
16------Not Connected
17------Not Connected
18------Black-----------
19------Gray------------[Mic Audio Input (-)]
20------Not Connected
21------Pink-------------Steering Control (Vol UP, Vol Down, Next Track, Prev Track)
22------Brown-----------Steering Control (Source, OnHook/Push to Talk, OffHook)
23------Purple-----------Steering Control Common (Ground when using Steering Wheel Control Module)
24------Not Connected
25------Orange----------Aux Enable
26------White------------Aux In Right
27------Gray/Black------Aux in Ground
28------Yellow------------Aux in Left


5-pins Camera connector
1 2 3 4 5
(orientation: viewing pins on car's factory plug, wires pointed away from you)

1------Red----------+6Volts ground From Radio to camera
2------Black--------+6Volts From Radio to camera
3------White--------Camera Signal (+)
4------Grey/Black--Camera Signal (-)


40-pins HVAC Connector
01 .. 20
21 .. 40
(orientation: viewing pins on car's factory plug, wires pointed away from you)

0 to 38----Unkown
39---------Orange---Illumination, +12v when position lights are ON
40---------Unkown
 

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This thread is very useful for those who wants to get rid of the glitchy factory radio. This is very reliable information. Kudos to the thread starter good job sir.

This is my current headunit Pioneer avh-2330NEX with Carplay and front facing camera.





Additional Information:

For those people who owned impreza with OEM harman kardon sound system you need to bypass your factory amplifier if you want to upgrade you OEM radio to a aftermarket radio like i did.


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Yes for now but i already placed my order for JL audio speakers and amplifier.


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If you have a Sport with the upgraded HK system can you please post pictures of the speakers when you remove them. I am thinking about just changing them out but would like to see them to decide if it is worth it. JL seems like a good choice. Will most likely keep the current head unit and amp. Post pictures of your JL speakers and amp when you change them.
 

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Wow, lots of good information here. I don’t plan to do a change out of the HK unit, but I’ll probably update the speakers at some point. Hoping somebody else does it before me and has good luck and recommendations :wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Here's what I got on the US Limited/Canadian Sport edition. I have a MID headunit, that is 8" screen *withOUT* Nav and *withOUT* external amplifier.

OEM speaker Front Door woofer info and dimensions:

- 6x9 in the door:
--* Filter (crossover): None
--* Basket material: Flimsy plastic, 6 branches
--* Cone material: (pressed?) Paper
--* Cone quantity: 2
--* Suspension material: Rubber
--* Polarity: The positive (+) is on the side of the connector with the latch that needs to be pressed to remove the harness

--* Baffle touching the door, mesured from bottom gasket: 7¼" wide and 10 1/8" long
--* Actual speaker, mesured from top foam gasket to foam gasket: 6½" wide and 9¼" long
--* Heigth from bottom of magnet to baffle touching door: 1½"
--* Heigth from bottom of magnet to top of speaker: 3"
--* Magnet diameter:2.365"
--* Magnet depth: 0.440"
--* OEM hole spacing (the spacing is unequal on the 6" side, would make a trapezoid shape if they were connected like dots)
----- 5.969 inch
----- 5.200 inch
----- 8" 3/8 inch
----- 8" 3/8 inch


OEM speaker Front Dash tweeter info and dimensions:
--* OEM Filter (crossover): 6.8uF
--* Cone material: Silk dome

--* Baffle width, wide side: 4.908"
--* Baffle width, narrow side: 3.037"
--* Heigth from bottom of magnet to baffle : 0.873"
--* Heigth from bottom of magnet to top of speaker: 1.385"
--* Cone overall diameter: 1.283"
--* Piston Diameter: 1"
--* OEM hole spacing: 4.110"

OEM speaker Rear door info:

**Deprecated, see below:I did'nt replaced those yet but I removed the door panel and the speakers in the autumn to check what they looked like. They are of very similar construction as the front woofer. Exception being they are double coned type and they are 6.5" round instead of oval. I'll post actual dimensions when I take those off. End of Deprecated**

It got less cold (not hotter per se), I took the door panel off for my other project. I took the time to document the rear speakers:
--* Filter (crossover): None
--* Basket material: Flimsy plastic, 6 branches
--* Cone material: (pressed?) Paper
--* Suspension material: Rubber
--* Polarity: The positive (+) is on the side of the connector with the latch that needs to be pressed to remove the harness

--* Baffle touching the door diameter, mesured from bottom of magnet: 6" 5/8
--* Actual speaker, diameter mesured from top foam gasket to foam gasket: 6" 3/8
--* Heigth from bottom of magnet to baffle touching door: 1.435"
--* Heigth from bottom of magnet to top of speaker: 2.630"
--* Magnet diameter:2.365" (same specs as the 6x9 above)
--* Magnet depth: 0.440" (same specs as the 6x9 above)
--* OEM hole spacing (the hole would form an equilateral triangle). Mesured from the center of the speaker to the center of the hole
----- Top hole (opposite OEM connector):4"
----- Right hole: 4"
----- Left hole: 4"
 

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This is a GREAT thread, and once the weather gets warm I will be pulling my factory unit. For now, I am happy with it...but I would like to see if I can get rid of the white light on the buttons and change them to red to match the rest of the interior lighting
 

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Here's what I got on the US Limited/Canadian Sport edition. I have a MID headunit, that is 8" screen *withOUT* Nav and *withOUT* external amplifier.

OEM speaker Front Door woofer info and dimensions:

- 6x9 in the door:
--* Filter (crossover): None
--* Basket material: Flimsy plastic, 6 branches
--* Cone material: (pressed?) Paper
--* Cone quantity: 2
--* Suspension material: Rubber
--* Polarity: The positive (+) is on the side of the connector with the latch that needs to be pressed to remove the harness

--* Baffle touching the door, mesured from bottom gasket: 7¼" wide and 10 1/8" long
--* Actual speaker, mesured from top foam gasket to foam gasket: 6½" wide and 9¼" long
--* Heigth from bottom of magnet to baffle touching door: 1½"
--* Heigth from bottom of magnet to top of speaker: 3"
--* Magnet diameter:2.365"
--* Magnet depth: 0.440"
--* OEM hole spacing (the spacing is unequal on the 6" side, would make a trapezoid shape if they were connected like dots)
----- 5.969 inch
----- 5.200 inch
----- 8" 3/8 inch
----- 8" 3/8 inch


OEM speaker Front Dash tweeter info and dimensions:
--* OEM Filter (crossover): 6.8uF
--* Cone material: Silk dome

--* Baffle width, wide side: 4.908"
--* Baffle width, narrow side: 3.037"
--* Heigth from bottom of magnet to baffle : 0.873"
--* Heigth from bottom of magnet to top of speaker: 1.385"
--* Cone overall diameter: 1.283"
--* Piston Diameter: 1"
--* OEM hole spacing: 4.110"

OEM speaker Rear door info:

**Deprecated, see below:I did'nt replaced those yet but I removed the door panel and the speakers in the autumn to check what they looked like. They are of very similar construction as the front woofer. Exception being they are double coned type and they are 6.5" round instead of oval. I'll post actual dimensions when I take those off. End of Deprecated**

It got less cold (not hotter per se), I took the door panel off for my other project. I took the time to document the rear speakers:
--* Filter (crossover): None
--* Basket material: Flimsy plastic, 6 branches
--* Cone material: (pressed?) Paper
--* Suspension material: Rubber
--* Polarity: The positive (+) is on the side of the connector with the latch that needs to be pressed to remove the harness

--* Baffle touching the door diameter, mesured from bottom of magnet: 6" 5/8
--* Actual speaker, diameter mesured from top foam gasket to foam gasket: 6" 3/8
--* Heigth from bottom of magnet to baffle touching door: 1.435"
--* Heigth from bottom of magnet to top of speaker: 2.630"
--* Magnet diameter:2.365" (same specs as the 6x9 above)
--* Magnet depth: 0.440" (same specs as the 6x9 above)
--* OEM hole spacing (the hole would form an equilateral triangle). Mesured from the center of the speaker to the center of the hole
----- Top hole (opposite OEM connector):4"
----- Right hole: 4"
----- Left hole: 4"


Thanks for all this great info man, really clears things up. I just bought an 2018 crosstrek and I plan on keeping the head unit for now but would like to add a 4 channel amp run in 3 channel configuration for front separates and a sub. I was looking at a JL audio fix for speaker level-line conversion and DSP. My question was with the front speakers. Your wiring breakdown shows 4 total conductors for fronts but the tweeters are part of the front stage. Where does the tweeter “Y” to the door speaker? I don’t want to send full range to tweeters. Can the bracket/basket used on tweeter be repurposed with some modifications?


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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all this great info man, really clears things up. I just bought an 2018 crosstrek and I plan on keeping the head unit for now but would like to add a 4 channel amp run in 3 channel configuration for front separates and a sub. I was looking at a JL audio fix for speaker level-line conversion and DSP. My question was with the front speakers. Your wiring breakdown shows 4 total conductors for fronts but the tweeters are part of the front stage. Where does the tweeter “Y” to the door speaker? I don’t want to send full range to tweeters. Can the bracket/basket used on tweeter be repurposed with some modifications?


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What I did in the Impreza

Well as you figured, the tweeters are in parallel. I don't know where the "Y" is located. What I did in this car was analyse the crossover board from my alpine components and I bought the parts to fabricate the tweeter's xover and hide it in the dash. For the door, it was only an inductor in serie so it was'nt complicated. I've located it inside the door panel.



Potential solution I did in previous cars

- place the crossover in the dash behind the radio or HVAC controls, whereever there is place.
- From the xover, I went to the car's harness to reach the mid-bass in the doors.
- For the tweeter, I went directly from xover to the tweeter by fishing new wires between the xover and tweets.

Since the midbass in the door is a bitch to re-wire, I often use the car's wiring for them. The tweeter is often very easy to reach by removing the side of the dash. You know, the part of the dash touching the door when the door is closed.

Hope it help!
 

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Thank you very much for this post. It was a huge help in getting everything setup in my car.

I wanted to include a few of my own experiences.

Parts
Other than the headunit, I bought the following:
  • SCOSCHE CRTSU01
  • Axxess AX-TOY28SWC (AX-SUB28SWC-6V looks like it will work and includes the camera but I already bought CRTSU01)
  • Axxess ASWC-1
  • Axxess AX-SUBUSB2
  • Metra 95-8908HG
  • Metra 40-LX11
  • Metra 70-1761
Mic Placement
I have eyesight but other than the unit being held in with bolts instead of screws, it was identical to yours. I had some dense Styrofoam lying around so I ended up making a hole in the middle and forcing the mic into the whole. I then placed the foam in the spot the OEM mic was in. The foam was a perfect fit, but I added a bit of tape just to hold it in place as I reassembled everything. I left the OEM mic in the compartment.

Telemetrics / Starlink
One thing that threw me for a loop is when I first pulled out the stock head unit and found an additional component (HT00) attached to the unit. Because I ran into some issues with the front speakers not working initially, I thought this might be an amp but it turns out it is a telemetrics device. It is on its own platter and can be removed from the stock stereo. I was able to stuff this down into the dash and connect the wires.

Configuring the Axxess SWC
For configuring the steering wheel controls, I highly recommend downloading their app and using the micro USB slot on the board to update the firmware and change the settings. Most phones will come with a micro USB to USB adapter so you can use a standard USB cable between your phone and the SWC device. I was able to update it while it was wired into the dash but I did find I would have to turn off the headunit and restart it for the settings to take effect. Hardest part of this whole process is opening the stupid little plastic door.

As mentioned above, I bought the Toyota version of the SWC -> 20 PIN adapter that doesn't include the camera component (since I already had this). This meant I didn't have to remove any pins from the 20 pin and supposedly I retained AUX input but I haven't tested it yet. There is an additional ground wire on this harness but it goes to a pin slot that isn't used by Subaru and can be ignored.
 

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Good morning everyone,
So does anyone know of a aftermarket head unit that Android Auto works for a Pixel phone? I've done a JVC and a Kenwood and both head units do not support the Android auto on Google pixel devices. Really tired of having to rip the dash apart and losing those little clips to just try a new head unit.
 

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Good morning everyone,
So does anyone know of a aftermarket head unit that Android Auto works for a Pixel phone? I've done a JVC and a Kenwood and both head units do not support the Android auto on Google pixel devices. Really tired of having to rip the dash apart and losing those little clips to just try a new head unit.
Why would it matter on a specific model phone? If the HU has Android Auto built in, then it should work on all android phones.
I've never heard of such a problem!
 

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Agreed, that's what I'm trying to figure out. The head units work with other phones (Samsung, Apple, etc.) fine and when I plug in mine it straight says "unsupported device" or AA freezes upon clicking it on the menu. Even went as far as contacting google (they told me to do literally every step I already performed as usual for a company) and still nothing. At this point it's the class act stock one until I can find a comparability list.
 

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Agreed, that's what I'm trying to figure out. The head units work with other phones (Samsung, Apple, etc.) fine and when I plug in mine it straight says "unsupported device" or AA freezes upon clicking it on the menu. Even went as far as contacting google (they told me to do literally every step I already performed as usual for a company) and still nothing. At this point it's the class act stock one until I can find a comparability list.
Pixel phone or pixel phones? I've had my 2 XL working fine both wired and wireless since i got it. Maybe a wipe/restore? That's helped me in the past
 
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