My guess is the wiring is messed up... which is likely connected to your other problem(s), and due to the "installation" of your remote start by "someone."

Answers here will assume a stock car... which this is now now not. So we can't help you. My advice is to consult with whomever has been into your car's wiring.

 

Thanks but the remote start was not installed - once he realized that I had a proximity key fob, he did not follow thru with the installation. Does anyone have access to the electrical schematic for this vehicle?

 

That green light is NOT the fog light. The fog light symbol is on the left hand side of the info screen. That green symbol is just the regular lights going on, probably the DRL, assuming they're on auto, I think.
As for the tail lights, who knows what's really going on. You basically have the option on the blinker stalk to turn the lights to full on position (top icon on the stalk), all lights but the headlights, or parking light mode (2nd to the top on the stalk), Auto, and off. The fog light switch, if equipped, is on a secondary control on that stalk.

 

I have a question, do you have your lights set to "Auto" ? I'm wondering if it has something to do with putting the car in DRL mode somehow. I wonder if the ambient light sensor on the dash is seeing some light or maybe is broken. The sensitivity can be adjusted too. Also if you have the feature turned on, when the wipers are on it turns on the headlamps. Not sure if the tail lights will go on with those too or not.

 

Back before I retired I was an electronics tech, and found that when I was spinning my wheels on a problem, it payed to take a break and then go back and re-trace my original steps. Often I found that previous assumptions I made were wrong and steered me down the wrong path.

 

thanks for the replies - I have the switch turned to the headlight "on" position. I also tried turning to the parking light position in which the front running lights are turned on but the rears are not turned on.
I checked the power at fuse #8 "running lights" and I had +13volts with the meter. So I am getting power at the fuse panel under the hood. I used a meter at the rear tail light connection and grounded to the steel trunk latch but no power. For giggles, I will replace the bulbs. What I don't know is if I all 2018 sport subies had LED lights or non LED lights. thanks

 

Which LED lights are you talkign about? The tail lamps?

This is going to sound silly but did you check the fuse itself for continuity? Once I had a fuse that looked fine and I would have sworn it was okay, when I checked it was bad in a spot I could not see. Grasping at straws but the one time it happened to me I was going crazy trying to figure out what was wrong. In desperation I checked the fuse.

 

I checked the fuse - verified correct.
I replaced 1 buld in rear with new bulb, no change
I had asked about LED since I thought the 2018 had a LED option so I wanted to make sure I was using the right bulb but I realized the LED upgrade was on interior lights.
I checked the under hood fuse #8 which states "tail light" and this circuit / fuse has +13 volts even when the lights are in the off position. So the fuse has power 100% of the time, it does not get powe by switching head lights on.
I fly out tomorrow for work, I am going to see if I can stop by the local dealer in the morning to receive a schemaitc - that will be helpful

This issue is really really weird

 

You say you have 12 volts to the bulb. Is the other end of the bulb making ground to complete the circuit?

 

Nope - I do not have 12volts at the bulb / taillight housing connector. I have 12volts at the under hood fuse for #8 which per my fuse panel cover is "tail light"
I am not getting voltage to the rear of the car.

 

Oops! My reply was a quickie off the top of my head.

 

Always good to ask and confirm. This issue is really baffling me. I drove the car back from Kentucky with my father following me therefore I am pretty sure he would have said something if the tail lights didn't work then. That was only 3K miles ago - very weird

 

This was a new purchase , not used?

 

And/or still in 3 yr/36K coverage? If so, let the dealer figure it out!

 

^^ yup. Could be a bcm quirk. Doubt it’s wiring.

Our last legacy had a bad bcm it did some really funky things.

Time for a dealer visit


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Hi. I'm in the same boat. 2019 Impreza hatchback; was told I had no rear riding lights. Brakes, reverse, turn signals/emergencies all work fine. But when I turn my lights to ON position, the rear doesnt luminate.

I checked fuse, changed bulbs... nothing. I've not made any modifications to my car. Can anyone help?

 

Try removing the driver door sill plate and lower left kick panel. The wires run along the door - make sure the wires are not too tight

 

Removing the door plate!?! That might be a little out of my comfort zone. Were you successful in getting your lights back on?

 

The sill plate is the plastic piece that sits over the top of the carpet
If you have checked the fuses it is not outside of your comfort zone
I think it just pops up then the second piece is the left driver kick plate

once you remove those 2 pieces, you will see the wires that run up the driver side rail

 

Ok. I'm here. What am I lookingfor?

 

I did as you suggested, and all wiring looks good to me. I have a service appointment tomorrow, I'll update then.

 

All I did wax remove those two plastic pieces and pull on the wires to give them less stress

you will see how they are router to the fuse panel / dist block

I think my issue was the tail light wire was getting pulled too much

 

I noticed your original post mentioned the parking light switch that was at the top center of the steering column, between the steering wheel and dash. Subaru removed that years ago. I think it confused too many people We used to call that the battery killer switch.

https://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/why-cant-turn-off-my-3661.html?t=3661

Good luck at the dealer today, I'm curious as to what they find. I hope it's something simple.

 

My car has been at the shop for 2 days. Yesterday they called and said there might be a short. They just called now, and said they "ordered the part and my car should be ready by Saturday". I'm headed in to get my loaner.

 

Its best to let the deaker mess with electrical issues, that can really screw up a car, that also why I steer ckear of adding any aftermarket electrical accessories and or car amps.