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I have a 2018 Subaru Impreza I had to replace the driver side wheel hub due to bad bearings. After doing that the check engine light and abs light came on. We took it back off and took off the speed sensor inspected it and put it back on. This cleared the abs code so we cleared the check engine light. That’s been fine so far but I have noticed the steering wheel is very stiff/tight. Is this normal after replacing a wheel hub?I haven’t got a tire balance or alignment yet which I know I probably need but I’ve had this car since it had 6 miles on it and the steering has never felt this stiff.
 

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In my unprofessional and very "new to mechanical issues" my guess it would be the tire alignment. From older cars that I had, after a hub replacement or something else of the sort, it always screwed up the alignment enough to wear I would go straight, but it was hard to turn like left or something. I think you can find a DIY for an alignment on YouTube, but yeah
 

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2017 Impreza Touring 5dr
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I'm not sure but some new hubs especially aftermarket ones have grease fittings...if so did you grease the new hub? could compound a misalignment ...if you disconnected the battery you may also have reset the power steering iirc take it from lock to lock a few times to reset


gl
 

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2021 Subaru Impreza 5-Door Sport 5MT
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I have a 2018 Subaru Impreza I had to replace the driver side wheel hub due to bad bearings. After doing that the check engine light and abs light came on. We took it back off and took off the speed sensor inspected it and put it back on. This cleared the abs code so we cleared the check engine light. That’s been fine so far but I have noticed the steering wheel is very stiff/tight. Is this normal after replacing a wheel hub?I haven’t got a tire balance or alignment yet which I know I probably need but I’ve had this car since it had 6 miles on it and the steering has never felt this stiff.
Fun fact, Subaru intentionally increases the steering weight with ABS faults to make people get their car looked at. This was a fun learning experience here at SIA because we actually weren't notified about this for some time. Since your ABS light is no longer on, this may not be the same case. Unless you removed a ball joint or tie rod in order to pull the axle out, you SHOULDN'T need to re-align the car. I'd confirm your caliper isn't sticking and that the slide pins are well lubricated. If the ABS light comes back on, then the steering weight is by design and you likely have an interference issue with the sensor and magnetic ring of the hub.
 

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2021 Subaru Impreza 5-Door Sport 5MT
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I am not understanding what you mean by increasing the steering weight? With ABS faults?

Thanks!
All of the newer Subaru's use electronic power steering. They can increase the steering resistance electronically (increase resistance = increase in steering weight). Whenever you get an ABS fault on your car, the power steering system will automatically increase the resistance to try and catch the drivers attention. Its done to try and get the user to take the car in.
 

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OK, I understand now, that's very interesting. I just did not understand "weight" meant resistance. My 2017 Impreza I have had less than a year and worry about stuff that could go bad and I see stuff like this and the wheel bearings going out at around 80,000 miles and wonder if I should have bought a different manufactures car. Heck, it only has 8,000 miles on it, I could sell it pretty easily. The stories of wheel studs breaking or like having to clean the oil out of the intake at like 60,000 miles.
I mostly like the car and have averaged 35 MPG which I am very happy with.

Thanks for explaining the steering!
 

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2021 Subaru Impreza 5-Door Sport 5MT
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OK, I understand now, that's very interesting. I just did not understand "weight" meant resistance. My 2017 Impreza I have had less than a year and worry about stuff that could go bad and I see stuff like this and the wheel bearings going out at around 80,000 miles and wonder if I should have bought a different manufactures car. Heck, it only has 8,000 miles on it, I could sell it pretty easily. The stories of wheel studs breaking or like having to clean the oil out of the intake at like 60,000 miles.
I mostly like the car and have averaged 35 MPG which I am very happy with.

Thanks for explaining the steering!
Long term reliability is always a concern when buying a car, and it absolutely should be. I've owned enough Subaru's to say that 70k-80k miles is pretty common to need to replace a hub bearing. Especially if aftermarket wheels are installed onto the car since they can come with different offsets which change the load being applied to the bearings.

I totally feel you on the intake cleaning as well, but any manufacturer that is direct injected (pretty much everyone now) has the same issue unless they retained multi-port injection (Subaru BRZ is the only exception for our company). EPA requirements are forcing design changes that aren't always the best for longevity, but FUEL ECONOMY IS KING for those people. The worst part to me is how little most people know about the vehicles they drive. This forum is comprised of the 5% that are enthusiast and want to know these differences. Most people don't even know what to ask. They just buy what they like.
 

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Again, Thanks for the information! I'm just used to my 1996 4.0 Jeep with 280,000 miles and have never had to clean the intake, it is multi-port injected. No wheel bearings either. I have no plans for different rims and tires than factory specifications and hope my wheel bearings last longer than the vehicle in this thread. The 2.0 is not a hot rod engine& I don't run it like one and try not to lug it down much. It's a 5 speed.
 
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