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Headunit replacement master thread

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76K views 22 replies 14 participants last post by  sacredshieldgaming  
Here's what I got on the US Limited/Canadian Sport edition. I have a MID headunit, that is 8" screen *withOUT* Nav and *withOUT* external amplifier.

OEM speaker Front Door woofer info and dimensions:

- 6x9 in the door:
--* Filter (crossover): None
--* Basket material: Flimsy plastic, 6 branches
--* Cone material: (pressed?) Paper
--* Cone quantity: 2
--* Suspension material: Rubber
--* Polarity: The positive (+) is on the side of the connector with the latch that needs to be pressed to remove the harness

--* Baffle touching the door, mesured from bottom gasket: 7ÂĽ" wide and 10 1/8" long
--* Actual speaker, mesured from top foam gasket to foam gasket: 6½" wide and 9¼" long
--* Heigth from bottom of magnet to baffle touching door: 1½"
--* Heigth from bottom of magnet to top of speaker: 3"
--* Magnet diameter:2.365"
--* Magnet depth: 0.440"
--* OEM hole spacing (the spacing is unequal on the 6" side, would make a trapezoid shape if they were connected like dots)
----- 5.969 inch
----- 5.200 inch
----- 8" 3/8 inch
----- 8" 3/8 inch


OEM speaker Front Dash tweeter info and dimensions:
--* OEM Filter (crossover): 6.8uF
--* Cone material: Silk dome

--* Baffle width, wide side: 4.908"
--* Baffle width, narrow side: 3.037"
--* Heigth from bottom of magnet to baffle : 0.873"
--* Heigth from bottom of magnet to top of speaker: 1.385"
--* Cone overall diameter: 1.283"
--* Piston Diameter: 1"
--* OEM hole spacing: 4.110"

OEM speaker Rear door info:

**Deprecated, see below:I did'nt replaced those yet but I removed the door panel and the speakers in the autumn to check what they looked like. They are of very similar construction as the front woofer. Exception being they are double coned type and they are 6.5" round instead of oval. I'll post actual dimensions when I take those off. End of Deprecated**

It got less cold (not hotter per se), I took the door panel off for my other project. I took the time to document the rear speakers:
--* Filter (crossover): None
--* Basket material: Flimsy plastic, 6 branches
--* Cone material: (pressed?) Paper
--* Suspension material: Rubber
--* Polarity: The positive (+) is on the side of the connector with the latch that needs to be pressed to remove the harness

--* Baffle touching the door diameter, mesured from bottom of magnet: 6" 5/8
--* Actual speaker, diameter mesured from top foam gasket to foam gasket: 6" 3/8
--* Heigth from bottom of magnet to baffle touching door: 1.435"
--* Heigth from bottom of magnet to top of speaker: 2.630"
--* Magnet diameter:2.365" (same specs as the 6x9 above)
--* Magnet depth: 0.440" (same specs as the 6x9 above)
--* OEM hole spacing (the hole would form an equilateral triangle). Mesured from the center of the speaker to the center of the hole
----- Top hole (opposite OEM connector):4"
----- Right hole: 4"
----- Left hole: 4"


Thanks for all this great info man, really clears things up. I just bought an 2018 crosstrek and I plan on keeping the head unit for now but would like to add a 4 channel amp run in 3 channel configuration for front separates and a sub. I was looking at a JL audio fix for speaker level-line conversion and DSP. My question was with the front speakers. Your wiring breakdown shows 4 total conductors for fronts but the tweeters are part of the front stage. Where does the tweeter “Y” to the door speaker? I don’t want to send full range to tweeters. Can the bracket/basket used on tweeter be repurposed with some modifications?


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